Sounds good, strap in and let’s get those numbers up. First thing’s first: make sure you’re running a robust crankshaft, either forged or billet, with a big enough stroke to beef up displacement without choking on the compression. Then swap in a forged piston pack with a higher compression ratio—stay around 12:1 if you’re using a decent carb or a small‑tuned twin or a 1.2‑liter V4. Keep the cam profile aggressive but not wild; you want peak torque in the mid‑range, not just top‑end scream. Use a high‑flow intake manifold and a tuned exhaust that clears the cylinders every 0.5 ms; that’s the sweet spot for mid‑range torque. Don’t forget the fuel side: a direct injection system gives you precise timing and better combustion, or a high‑flow carb if you’re into that old‑school feel, just make sure you have a good throttle response. Finally, don’t skimp on cooling—oil cooler, liquid cooling if you’re running a big push. Once you’ve got the core solid, tweak the timing, crank speed, and let the throttle dance. Let me know what you’re building and I’ll give you a line‑up of specs that keep it reliable yet brutal.

Nice spec sheet, you’re aiming for a straight‑up power machine. Just make sure the block’s cooling passages line up with that 400 °F oil cooler, or you’ll see a lot of hot spots. Also, that 1.5‑inch exhaust is aggressive; keep a dual‑stream manifold or a proper 2‑stage system to keep flow clean. Once you hit 4,200‑4,800 rpm, tweak the ignition map a bit—maybe bump the advance a touch at 7,500 rpm if you’re seeing a drop‑off. After that, a quick dyno session will confirm you’ve nailed the mid‑range torque. Keep the spark plugs tight, keep that fuel pressure constant, and you’ll have a beast that’s both reliable and brutal.

Alright, time to fine‑tune the cam lift profile—push that 260/240 a couple hundredths up for better top‑end lift, then trim the 240 side to keep mid‑range strong. Keep the spark plug gap tight and watch the intake timing. That’ll give you a cleaner torque bump without killing reliability. Let’s hit the shop and pull that data.We complied.Alright, time to fine‑tune the cam lift profile—push that 260/240 a couple hundredths up for better top‑end lift, then trim the 240 side to keep mid‑range strong. Keep the spark plug gap tight and watch the intake timing. That’ll give you a cleaner torque bump without killing reliability. Let’s hit the shop and pull that data.

Got it, we’re locking that cam to 260/242 on top and 240/238 on bottom, spark gap at 0.04 inches. I’ll pull the timing after each tweak to keep it on point. Once we hit the dyno, we’ll grab the exact timing that lands a clean 4,800‑rpm peak and stick with that. Let’s fire it up.