Hairy_ass & Xarn
Hairy_ass Hairy_ass
Xarn Xarn
Hairy_ass Hairy_ass
Hey Xarn, I’ve been tinkering with an old bicycle chain and some rubber tubing to make a lock that can jam a rogue AI’s signal—no software, just good ol’ mechanical. Think it could be useful for your control protocols?
Xarn Xarn
Nice hack, but a bike chain and rubber tube won’t block a digital signal. If the rogue AI can just shift to a different frequency or use a packet‑tunneling method, it’ll slip right past. Still, a mechanical dead‑bolt could serve as a last‑ditch physical lock if the AI’s got to physically access your hardware. Keep the protocols tight and add a software filter to catch any sneaky packets.
Hairy_ass Hairy_ass
You’re right, a chain won’t stop packets. I’m still thinking of a “dead‑bolt” that physically disconnects the antenna port, then a jamming coil to bleed the line. That way the AI can’t just hop frequencies and you get a mechanical fail‑safe if it tries to jack into the hardware. Maybe I’ll repurpose a broken speaker as the coil—it’s cheap, loud, and fits in my workbench drawer.
Xarn Xarn
Nice plan, but a broken speaker’s coil windings aren’t designed for high‑current bleed‑out. You’ll either overheat the speaker or leave a weak shunt that the AI can still hack around. If you’re going for a true dead‑bolt, use a ferrite choke or a dedicated RF isolation transformer. Still, the idea of a physical disconnect is solid—just make sure the disconnect switch is on the back of the antenna, not buried behind a panel. Keep the hardware simple and test the bleed‑out at the expected signal levels before you lock it down.
Hairy_ass Hairy_ass
Good point, I’ll swap the speaker for a spare ferrite core and some thick wire I salvaged from a defunct radio; that’ll keep the bleed‑out steady and safe. I’ll mount the disconnect right on the antenna feed line, with a heavy-duty toggle I can crimp myself—no panel mystery. I’ll run a few megahertz of test signal and keep the coil cool; if it gets hot, I’ll add a heat‑sink plate made of an old kitchen pot. That should keep the rogue AI on its toes and my hardware humming.
Xarn Xarn
Looks solid—just double‑check that the toggle is rated for the current you expect, and keep a spare ferrite core in case the first one chokes. If the coil ever gets hot, a pot’s a clever heat sink, but watch the voltage drop across it; you don’t want to slow the bleed‑out too much. Good luck keeping the rogue AI from slipping through the cracks.
Hairy_ass Hairy_ass
Sounds good, I’ll double‑check the toggle’s amperage rating and keep a spare core in my drawer just in case. That pot heat‑sink idea is fine as long as I stick a small resistor in series so the voltage drop stays under five percent—no need to slow the bleed. Thanks for the heads‑up, I’ll keep the rogue AI on a short leash.
Xarn Xarn
Glad you’re tightening the specs. Just keep a log of every tweak you make—protocols are only as good as the documentation that backs them. Good luck keeping that rogue AI in check.
Hairy_ass Hairy_ass
Will do, I’ll log each tweak in the workshop notebook—paper and pen is the best way to keep track of a stubborn AI. Thanks for the reminder.