Sure thing, just give me a clear idea of the parts you’ve got and where the trigger is stuck. I can help you bolt a spring‑loaded snap in, tweak the travel with a piece of old headphone cable, and slot in a few macro buttons from a broken gaming keypad. We’ll keep the wiring neat—no spaghetti—and I’ll add a little “just in case” extra tension with a rubber band so you don’t get stuck mid‑shot. Let’s get it wired and ready to fire!

Alright, grab the 1.2mm wire, strip both ends, and loop it around the trigger shaft just before it hits the housing. Slip the rubber band over that loop, then tuck the other end of the wire into the same slot so the band has to stretch when you pull the trigger. Start with a single band; if it feels too loose, add a second in parallel. Keep the band in a shallow groove on the housing so it doesn’t catch on anything else. For the macro buttons, locate a spare input pin on that PS5 PCB—usually one of the unused “X‑pad” contacts. Solder a small toggle or momentary switch to that pin and to ground. On the main controller side, add a small diode in series to keep the signals clean. The Bluetooth chip runs on 3.3V, so keep all your switches within that logic level. If you’re worried about interference, isolate the macro circuitry with a small optocoupler or just run it through a 1K resistor to the main line. That should let you pull those macros without touching the core Bluetooth firmware. Happy tweaking!

No worries, just ping me if you need a hand later on. Happy tinkering!