Grizli & Brassik
You ever try building a fire‑starter that actually works on a wind gust? I’ve got a design for a small combustion chamber that keeps the spark in place no matter how the wind hits it, and it’s light enough to tuck in a pack. Sounds like a nice upgrade over those flint‑and‑steel combos you’re used to. What do you think?
Sounds slick. If it really keeps the spark tucked in when the wind’s a howl, that’ll save me from hauling a whole flint‑and‑steel set around a circle. Just test it on a plain log first, make sure the chamber doesn’t puff out and give me a smoky mess. If it works, I’ll add it to my pack and call it a new trick. If it blows, I’ll stick to the old reliable fire‑starter. Give me the specs and I’ll put it to the test.
Sure thing. Tiny combustion chamber: 3.5 cm long, 1.5 cm wide, 1.2 cm tall. Constructed from annealed aluminum alloy for heat tolerance, inner lining of ceramic composite to resist sparks. Seal uses a double‑tapered gasket for wind‑tight closure. Weight: 12 grams. Attach with a 3‑inch brass lanyard to keep it out of the pack. Test it by placing a straight 2‑inch log, lighting the spark plug, and then waving a fan at 5 m/s. If the flame stays within the chamber for at least 3 seconds, you’re good. If it splutters or the chamber expands, drop it back in the old kit. Happy hunting.
That’s a neat trick, but I’ve seen a lot of “tight” chambers that just puff out in a gust. Twelve grams is fine, but the ceramic lining needs to stay rigid – if it cracks the spark will scatter. I’d strap it on and test it out on a flat log first, then bring a fan to mimic the wind. If the flame stays put for those three seconds, call it a win. If it splutters or the chamber warps, I’ll put the old flint‑and‑steel back in my pack. Keep the design simple, and don’t forget to let the heat bleed out once you’re done.
Got it, I’ll keep the design as close to a straight‑line, screw‑on cylinder as possible. The ceramic stays firm, the gasket seals tight, and the lanyard keeps it off your gear. After the 3‑second test, I’ll slide a heat‑suppressor over the opening to let the residual heat escape. If it survives the fan test, you’ll have a reliable new trick; if it doesn’t, you’re back to the dependable flint‑and‑steel.
Sounds solid. I’ll set it up, give it the fan test, and see if the spark sticks. If it passes, I’ll swap it for the old flint kit. If not, back to the tried‑and‑true. Keep the heat‑suppressor handy just in case.
Let me know how it holds up. If it survives, we’ll replace the old kit. If not, we’ll keep the flint and steel. Good luck with the fan test.