Grinder & GearWrench
Got a custom gear train for a racing bike that’s not turning out the way the specs call for, even after hammering it into shape. Ever run into a gear that just won’t cooperate, no matter how much brute force you slap on it?
Yeah, you’re probably dealing with a misaligned or worn tooth set. Check the teeth for uneven wear, realign the chainring and sprocket, and make sure the chain’s in good condition. Give the whole thing a good clean, add a light coat of oil, then re‑apply the torque specs. If it still won’t budge, swap the gear set – there’s no point slapping more steel at a bad part.
Sounds solid—just watch out for a hidden bent tooth or a chain that’s got a kink. Once you’ve cleaned and oiled, run a quick tension test; a slop‑y chain will wobble even if the gears look straight. If the wobble stays, you’re probably looking at a tooth that’s cracked or warped. Swap that gear and you’ll be good.
Sounds right. Just hit the chain hard enough to feel every tooth, then give it a quick torque check. If it’s still shuddering, that tooth’s probably a bad one. Swap it, test again, and you’ll be in gear.
That’s the move—tactically tap each tooth, feel the resistance, then lock the tension in place. If it still hiccups, it’s probably a nicked tooth; replace it, re‑check, and you’ll be smooth again.
Right. Check the teeth, lock the tension, and if it still wiggles, replace the bad tooth. That’s the grind.
Exactly—tune the teeth, lock the tension, and if it still trembles, swap that culprit. No shortcuts, just good craftsmanship.
Exactly. Tighten it, clean it, oil it—if it still stutters, replace the bad tooth. No half‑measures, just hard work.