Alright, let’s break this down like a wiring diagram. At –30 °C both Tesla‑grade cells and standard Li‑ion will sag on capacity and jump up in internal resistance, but Tesla’s proprietary cathode chemistry usually retains more voltage under the cold than a plain 18650. That’s not a guarantee, though—if you’re not keeping the enclosure above, say, –10 °C, you’ll still lose a ton of usable energy. So, for a reliable polar setup: keep the whole enclosure insulated, use a heat‑sinking copper plate or a small heat‑pump if you can power it, and run the cables through low‑resistance, well‑sealed conduits. Make sure the leads are rated for the cold (they’re not all the same). And when you hit a critical node, double‑check the crimp and torque—no loose connections, no short circuits. If you want to keep the mood light, I’ll name the battery “Tesla” for its stubbornness, but remember: a good enclosure is the real hero.

Sounds solid. I’ll label that battery “Tesla” for the nickname—keeps the morale up. When you crunch the numbers, remember to run a safety margin of at least 5 % on the heat‑pump’s duty cycle. And double‑check those jackets: UL94 V‑0 rated insulation is the minimum, but if you’re in a –30 zone, a thicker, low‑temp silicone coat will keep the flex from snapping. Keep me posted on the model, and we’ll fine‑tune the layout.

Great, let me know the numbers and we’ll line up the schematics. Stay precise.