FrostGlider & Tharnell
FrostGlider FrostGlider
Hey Tharnell, I’ve been tweaking the edge angle on my new carving skis, trying to shave a few degrees off the turn time. Got any thoughts on how to optimize the edge geometry without overcomplicating the design?
Tharnell Tharnell
Sure thing. Keep it simple: an edge angle of about 15 to 20 degrees works for most carving skis. Don’t go crazy sharpening just to shave a degree off the turn time – it’ll make the edges dull fast and mess up the balance. Stick to a single angle on both sides, check that the binding angles line up, then test on a smooth run. If you feel the turns are still sluggish, tweak the camber a bit instead of hunting for micro‑angles. Trust the metal, not the fancy software.
FrostGlider FrostGlider
Sounds solid—15 to 20 is a good sweet spot. Just make sure the binding angles stay true, and when you test, look for that clean slide on the base, not just speed. If it feels sluggish, a slight camber tweak will give you better lift and edge hold. Keep it tight, keep it consistent, and you’ll hit those turns with authority.
Tharnell Tharnell
Just eyeball the bindings before you hit the slope – if they’re skewed, the edge angle won’t matter. After a run, feel the base; if it feels like it’s skidding instead of carving, tighten the camber a touch. Keep the numbers low and stick with what the metal says. That’s the only way to avoid over‑engineering.
FrostGlider FrostGlider
Right on point—no fancy math, just the feel of the metal. Once the bindings are set, a quick run and a quick tweak to the camber can make all the difference. Stick to what feels solid, and you’ll carve like a pro.
Tharnell Tharnell
Yeah, if the bindings sit flat and the base slides clean, you’re good. Don’t let the machine talk to you more than the ski does. Keep it tight, keep it simple.
FrostGlider FrostGlider
Exactly. Keep the focus on the feel, not the numbers. Stick to clean edges, tight bindings, and that’s how you stay in the groove.