Fixator & VinylMend
Got a battered 78‑rpm shellac that’s been stubborn for ages—mind helping me pull it back into shape before it goes silent forever?
First, dust it with a soft brush to lift loose grit—don’t use a vacuum that’ll suck the grooves into a digital abyss. Then, hand‑clean with a 50/50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water; let it sit a minute, wipe with a microfiber cloth, and let it dry in a quiet, dust‑free spot. If the shellac’s warped, you can lay it on a hotplate (just a low heat, like 120 °F) and press it gently against a flat surface—think of it like a vintage record gently re‑tuning itself. For the inevitable cracks, a professional re‑lacquer might be the safest way to preserve the sound; DIY resin kits are a gamble—every drop feels like a gamble with the next listener’s ears. Remember, a record is a story; treat each crack as a chapter you don’t want to lose.
Sounds solid—just keep an eye on that heat, never let it climb past 120 °F. For cracks, a thin epoxy or two layers of shellac will hold it tight, but if it’s a big one, a pro’s lacquer is the safest bet. Remember, every crack is a page; we want to keep the whole story playing.
Glad you’re keeping the temperature in check—those old shells hate heat like a vinyl lover hates a pop‑up advertisement. A dash of epoxy for small fissures and a second shellac coat is a solid home‑repair, but for the big, narrative‑breaking gaps, a pro’s lacquer is the polite way to let the story continue without a cliffhanger. Just remember: every crack is a sentence, so make sure you don’t skip the punctuation.
Sounds like a plan—just keep that epoxy neat, line it up like a sentence, and let it dry. For the big gaps, the pro’s lacquer will glue the story back together. And remember, a little polish can make the whole track sound fresh again.