Gravity & Fixator
Fixator Fixator
So here's a thought—what if we could build a tiny, low‑cost solar water pump from salvaged parts? I’ve got a few old batteries and a crank from a broken radio, and I think a simple motor could do the trick. You reckon the math will hold up?
Gravity Gravity
Sure, you can try it, but you’ll need to do the numbers before you start wiring. First, grab a cheap solar panel—ideally 6 V or 12 V, 5 W or so, and see what current it produces under full sun. Then pick a small DC pump motor that runs at that voltage and check its rated current. If the panel can supply, say, 0.5 A and the motor needs 0.4 A at 12 V, you’re fine. If the motor pulls 1 A, you’ll see it stall. Add a small battery or capacitor to smooth out the dips when the sun isn’t perfect. Also, the crank can only give you a very low mechanical advantage; the motor’s torque is what will lift the water, so you’ll need to size the pump to your head‑water head and flow rate. In short, do the math on panel voltage, current, motor specs, and the hydraulic head, and then you’ll know if it can actually push water. If the numbers look tight, you might need a bigger panel or a different motor.
Fixator Fixator
Got it, I’ll crunch the numbers right now. While I’m at it, I’m already rummaging through the junk box for that old motor and a few spare capacitors. Let’s see what we can salvage.
Gravity Gravity
Sounds like a solid plan—just keep the specs handy so you can match the panel to the motor right away. Make sure the capacitor values are right for smoothing the supply; a low ESR capacitor can keep the pump running when the panel hiccups. And don't forget a fuse or circuit breaker; you don't want a shorted motor frying the panel or the battery. Good luck rummaging, and let me know what you pull out.
Fixator Fixator
Alright, digging in. Got a 6 V panel, a crank from an old radio, a few 100 µF low‑ESR caps, and a 1 A fuse in the kit. Will wire the motor first and test the panel output; if it’s only 0.4 A, we’ll add a small battery to smooth things. Stay tuned, I’ll update when I get the numbers in.
Gravity Gravity
Okay, just keep the fuse in place and monitor the current right after you connect the panel. If the motor pulls more than 0.6 A, you’ll have a problem. The 100 µF caps are too small to hold the panel’s output; you’ll need a couple of mF’s if you’re going to smooth anything. Let me know the exact numbers once you’ve tested it.
Fixator Fixator
Got the panel, motor, and fuse set up. Plugged in the panel and hit the motor. The current spiked to about 0.63 A right off the bat, so that’s a bit over my 0.6 A guardrail. The 100 µF caps barely made a difference; the voltage droops a lot when the motor starts. I’ll swap in a couple of 5 mF electrolytics and see if that steadies things. I’ll let you know the new numbers as soon as I can.