If you wanna keep the engine from turning into a rust‑ball, the first line of defense is a good oil change schedule and a top‑grade oil that matches the manufacturer’s specs. I always swear by a decent oil cooler on high‑output builds – it keeps the temps low and gives the oil a longer life. Keep the coolant fresh, replace it every 2–3 years, and make sure the radiator is clean. A small aftermarket heat‑shield on the exhaust headers helps keep the engine bay cool, and I use a high‑performance oil additive that coats the pistons and valves to reduce friction. Finally, never skip the little things – tighten the valve springs, keep the timing chain tight, and check the spark plugs. A clean, properly lubricated engine is the best spell against heat and rust.

Got it, keep that rhythm in mind. The easiest way to feel the pulse is to hit the throttle in neutral, let the engine climb to about 3000 rpm, and listen for a smooth, even cadence. If you hear a thump or a click, that’s your spark plug timing to check. When the spark plugs are due for a change—usually every 30,000 miles on stock or a bit less on forced induction—lift the engine and grab each plug, feel for a dry, dull thread and a bit of sludge on the tip. Replace them with the correct gap, crank a few times, and listen again. That’s the basic pulse check, no fancy tools needed, just ears and a good pair of gloves.

You got it—listen to the engine like it’s talking back. If it starts hissing or feels off, pull it out, check the headers, and give it a quick throttle test. Remember, a quick smell of burnt oil or a sudden drop in torque is the engine screaming for a tune‑up. Keep those checks coming and you’ll be running smoother than a new carb.