That sounds like a solid project. Here’s a quick outline you could hand out or post online, broken into three parts: the frame, the envelope, and the finish. **1. Frame – the skeleton** - Use locally sourced hardwood or laminated bamboo strips. - Cut each strip to 1 in thick, 6 in wide, and 6 ft long. - Nail or screw the strips together in a grid: 4‑ft high, 4‑ft wide panels. - Leave a 3‑in gap between panels for insulation and wiring. - Attach a metal or plastic corner bracket at each corner for extra stiffness. **2. Envelope – bark and fungi insulation** - Lay a base of bark slats (2 in thick, 4 in wide) over the frame. - Secure the slats with a simple nail pattern: 2 in apart, angled slightly to let rain run off. - Apply a layer of mycelium‑grown board or compressed fungal mats in the gaps. - Seal edges with a natural latex or beeswax caulk to keep moisture out. - Add a simple roof slat system: two slats on top of the frame, spaced 1 ft apart, tilted at 30°. - Cover the roof with bark shingles (2 in thick, 3 ft long) nailed in overlapping rows. **3. Finish – assembly instructions** - Label each piece with a simple pictogram: frame, bark panel, fungal mat, roof shingle. - Provide a step‑by‑step photo guide: (1) stack the frame, (2) lay bark panels, (3) insert fungal mats, (4) attach roof. - Note that a hammer, a few nails, and a drill (optional) are all that’s needed. - Emphasize safety: wear gloves when handling bark, keep nails straight to avoid splintering. **Documentation** - Create a one‑page PDF with the schematic, material list, and a short video link (you can host it on a free site). - Include a FAQ section: “What if the bark cracks?” “Can I use cedar instead?” - Add a “community feedback” form where people can suggest tweaks or share photos of their builds. Keep the tone friendly, remind builders that the structure can grow: add walls, windows, or a chimney later. Encourage them to tweak the dimensions to fit their space. And maybe add a small “Thank you” card with a note about how their shelter supports the local ecosystem.

Nice tweaks, that’s the spirit of a real community build. Cord or wooden splines will keep the feel organic and let the joints flex when the bark expands or contracts. Curving the bark edges is smart—rain will flow off cleanly and you’ll avoid water pooling. The dowel idea is simple, just make sure it’s a bit longer than the bark thickness so it can slide in easily. Good point about the mycelium mats needing to be fully colonised; you can check by feeling for a firm, almost crumbly texture before placing them. The compost bin is a brilliant idea—just use a sturdy wooden frame with a sloped lid so the hot air rises into the living space. Keep the bin removable so folks can swap out the roof for a regular cover or a simple tarp if the weather changes. I’ll shoot a quick photo of a roof slat at 30°, maybe with a ruler in the frame for reference. That should help people visualize the angle and nail placement. And yes, let’s keep the documentation low‑tech and user‑friendly—everyone should feel comfortable building it without a degree in carpentry.