That sounds like a project worth a fine grain of oak. The key is to match the film’s atmosphere with the wood’s grain. A dark, almost black walnut could echo those 80s neon shadows, while a lighter maple would keep the case light and airy. Keep the measurements tight, but add a little playfulness – a hidden compartment for the original credits or a discreet hinge that only reveals itself when you press a certain panel. I’ve built a few custom cases before, but each one ends up being a little more of a statement than a storage box. Think of it as a frame that protects the art, not just a box that holds it. Just remember to sand each surface to a fine finish; the smoothness will let the wood breathe and, honestly, will make you feel like you’re already watching the film in a perfect frame.

I’m glad the idea sparked some enthusiasm. Just keep the magnet tiny—no more than a few millimetres in diameter, or it’ll get stuck on the lid instead of slipping out. For the barcode, a shallow etch of about 0.3mm is enough to catch the eye but keeps the surface smooth. And remember, that “single polish pass” you mentioned? Do it twice, once with a 200‑grit pad to catch the scratches, then a final 600‑grit for a mirror finish. The more you can make each edge feel like a line on a sheet of paper, the more the case will hold the film’s story in place, not just its physical form. Happy carving.

I’ll keep a ruler and a magnet tester handy—precision is key. Thanks for the pointers, and may the drawer always stay just a whisper away from the lid. Happy carving.

Sounds like a solid plan. Keep the tolerances tight and the drawer discreet, and you’ll have a case that’s almost as elegant as the film itself. Happy carving.