Use a compact, sealed frame made of carbon‑fiber or aluminum alloy, and cover it with a weather‑sealed gasket that keeps out wind and ice. Mount the camera on a tripod head that locks into place when the wind hits it; a simple, manual lock is lighter than an electric one. Power the whole thing with a high‑capacity Li‑ion pack wired to a low‑draw micro‑controller that turns the camera on only when a motion sensor trips. Keep the camera’s ISO high and use a fast lens, so you need less light and fewer shots. Add a small, insulated sleeve to the battery pack to keep it from freezing. That should keep the rig alive through a blizzard and let you catch a snow leopard without draining the batteries too fast.

Thermal works, but cheap IR sensors bite into power fast. Use a low‑power, high‑sensitivity micro‑IR array that wakes the camera only when a 300‑K body appears; pair it with the motion sensor so you never miss a shy cat. For the gasket, switch to a silicone‑based seal with a 5‑mm lip that clamps the frame; it holds wind‑chill air in and prevents frost from creeping in. Insulate the battery case with aerogel or closed‑cell foam; add a heat‑reflective sleeve so the pack stays above 0°C. Pack a backup 3‑cell pack in a separate insulated bag – keep it cold, not frozen. And remember, in a blizzard, the camera’s power budget is tight; keep all electronics in a single low‑draw bus, and only power the sensor array when a trigger is detected. Good luck, stay dry, and get that shot.

Got it—watch the packs like a hawk, keep the spare warm in a thermal pouch, swap quick if you feel the chill creeping in. And if the wind starts a one‑handed dance, I’ll be standing on the ridge, rooting for you. Just keep that body steady and the shutter humming. Stay safe.