Sure thing. First off, a period‑authentic look doesn’t mean you have to use a solid heavy steel blade. I’d start with a high‑carbon or even a carbon‑steel alloy, but cut the core in a hollow‑core pattern. That keeps the weight down, so the actor can swing it without fatiguing. Just be careful to keep the walls thick enough for a solid feel—about a millimetre or two is usually fine. Then temper it right: a double temper or a final 600‑700 °C heat gives a good balance of toughness and a nice edge. The finish can be a matte, period‑appropriate patina, so you don’t have to worry about flash. For the edge, sharpen to a moderately fine point—roughly 20–22 HRC. That keeps the blade looking razor‑sharp on camera but dull enough to be safe. A simple test is to tap the edge on a glass plate; if it smacks a little, it’s sharp enough. If it cuts through the glass, lower the edge. Handle it with a sturdy leather or synthetic wrap—something that gives a good grip but doesn’t show up on film. And if you need an extra safety layer, a thin rubber coating on the edge can prevent accidental cuts while still letting the light hit the blade’s bevel. That’s the trick: keep the look, cut the weight, temper the edge, and keep it just sharp enough for the camera.

Nice points, that extra thickness will keep the blade from wobbling when the actor swings hard. The cloth test is a solid idea too, makes sure the edge is sharp enough for the camera but not dangerous. The metal pin on the handle is smart – keeps the blade from slipping if something trips. All good details to round out the prop.

Sure thing, just make sure the pin sits snug but not too deep so it’s feel‑free for the actor. That’s all.