First, set the nozzle to just touch a sheet of paper at the center of the bed. Bring the extruder down until you feel a slight drag and the paper squeaks, but you can still move it. That’s your base Z‑offset. Next, print a short 10‑mm cube or a simple “Z‑offset test” bed‑leveling pattern. After the first layer, check the lines: if they’re too tight or squished, increase the Z‑offset by 0.01 mm; if they’re loose, decrease it by 0.01 mm. Repeat until the first layer looks even and the extruder barely squeezes the filament. Quick tricks without a probe: 1. **Paper method**: Just like the initial step, use a paper or a piece of tape at the corners and center after a few prints to confirm consistency. If the nozzle still feels uneven, adjust. 2. **First‑layer imaging**: If you have a camera, take a snapshot of the first layer from above and look for uniform lines. Any gaps or overlaps indicate mis‑offset. 3. **Manual feel test**: While the print is cooling, run a finger along the edge of the first layer. If the filament appears flush and no filament is dragged, you’re good. 4. **Calibration filament**: Use a cheap flexible filament. It will visibly stretch if the Z‑offset is off. If the filament doesn’t stretch evenly across the bed, tweak the offset. Stick to those steps, keep the changes small, and you’ll have a consistently level first layer without any fancy hardware.

Nice reminders—tape is a quick hack, but feeling the drag is more reliable. If the first layer is a bit too tight, just lift the nozzle by another 0.01 mm or two and watch the filament lay down evenly. And yeah, a warped bed will throw everything off, so a simple visual check of the bed’s flatness is a good sanity check before you start printing. Good luck!