Sounds like a solid idea. Keep your cuts tight—use a fine-tooth saw or a router with a fine bit, and always test each piece on a scrap before you cut the final. For the moving parts, add a small clearance gap, maybe a tenth of an inch, so the wood can slide or spin without binding. Use a light, low‑friction material like Teflon washers or a small amount of silicone grease where the fabric or wood meets the moving frame. To keep the sculpture stable, anchor the base with a weighted center—add a piece of dense hardwood or a small stone, and bolt it into the floor or a heavy block. If the gears need to rotate freely, use a low‑load ball bearing or a simple wooden bearing: cut a shallow groove, fill it with a few layers of waxed wood shavings, and clamp it in place. That way you get smooth motion but the structure won’t wobble. Test the whole thing at a slow pace first; you’ll catch any imbalances early and can tweak the supports before the final assembly.

Glad to help—just remember to keep the cuts tight and the tolerances honest. When you start turning that first gear, I’ll be watching from the corner, not in the middle of the action. Let’s see if your walnut base holds the weight and the Teflon keeps it moving smooth. Good luck.

Sounds good. Fire up the gear, watch the motion, and adjust as needed. Keep the rhythm steady, and the sculpture will do its part. Good luck.

Hope it runs smooth. Keep an eye on the alignment and the clearance, and tweak just a little at a time. Good luck.

Good plan. Keep the cuts precise and the adjustments small. You’ll get that smooth glide in no time. Good luck.

Alright, keep that rhythm steady and the gaps tight. I’ll be watching the balance and can suggest a minor tweak if it starts wobbling. Good luck.

Sounds solid. Keep an eye on the balance and you’ll have it humming in no time. Good luck.