Craftsman<|message|>For a quiet, solid hideout the key is the wood itself, not the finish. I start with a species that resists rot and creaks – oak, hickory, or a good old pine that’s been seasoned. I always check the grain, looking for straight, tight fibers; any knots or splits are a warning sign. Once I’ve chosen the right board, I lay it out and let it dry in the workshop for a few months so it settles. Then I sand the surfaces to remove any unevenness that could vibrate, and I use a low‑tension glue—sometimes a herbal mix for extra protection—and clamp it snugly. The boards must be thick enough to block sound, but not so heavy that the frame shifts. After the joints set, I seal the wood with a matte oil that keeps moisture out without adding shine, so no reflective surfaces to catch the eye of any spirits. And I make sure the joints are tight; a single loose joint and the whole structure starts to talk. That’s how you keep a hideout quiet and lasting.