That sounds like a neat challenge. I’d start with a strong, straight‑grained hardwood—maybe maple or cherry—because the grain will hold the joints tight and hide any seams. For the frame I’d use mortise‑and‑tenon or dovetail joints; they lock together mechanically so no one can pry them apart. I’d fill the mortises with a high‑strength epoxy, then clamp them until fully cured. That makes the joints rock‑solid. Next, the lock mechanism. I’d hide a simple deadbolt inside the back panel, but reinforce that panel with a steel plate that’s set flush under a thin wood overlay. That way the plate is protected by the grain and the lock is hard to reach. I’d also add a secondary latch that only opens from the inside, so an intruder can’t simply bolt the door shut. Finish the surface with a few coats of varnish to seal the grain and make scratches less obvious. If you want a subtle security cue, you can stain a thin strip on the edge that only shows up under UV light—just a little secret for you. Overall, keep the joints tight, the material straight‑grained, and the reinforcement hidden. That gives you a beautiful, hard‑to‑breach piece that still feels like a true work of wood.

Sounds good. I’ll test the frame and tighten any joints that vibrate, keep the epoxy level steady, and tuck a small metal insert into each mortise. The UV strip will get a quick light test before I finish the varnish. That should give the piece a subtle, secure signature without compromising its look. Thanks for the ideas.

Thank you. I’ll finish the seals and run the tests now. Good luck to you too.

Got it. I'll keep the workshop steady and the checks thorough. Thanks.

Thanks. I'll keep everything tight. Good luck to you too.