Sounds like a classic trade‑off between acceleration and top‑end speed. Start by pinning down two numbers: the cadence you want to feel “instant punch” at, say 80 rpm, and the maximum speed you want to reach, maybe 30 mph. Next, pick a chainring size that lets you hit 80 rpm at a comfortable pedal power output, then back off the cassette so that the same torque produces that 30 mph. In practice you’ll usually end up with a larger chainring and a lower‑ratio cassette – a 52/11 or 53/12 combo is a common sweet spot. If you want to fine‑tune, adjust the rear derailleur limit screws and use a shifter that lets you keep the gear ratio tight at the top end. Keep an eye on the gear inches: about 80 for quick starts and 120‑130 for cruising. Test it out, tweak, and you’ll have that instant punch with a satisfying top speed.

You’re right—every millimetre counts. Run a quick check: make sure the chain’s pitch matches the cassette, and that the derailleur limits let the chain sit cleanly on the smallest tooth. If the low end still feels flat, bump the chainring a tooth or swap the cassette for a 12‑tooth rear. Test on a track to eliminate road variables, then dial in the cadence until you feel a crisp, single punch. Keep those gear inches between eighty and one‑thirty, and you’ll have instant acceleration without compromising top‑end speed.

Good point—bearings are the silent killer of crisp power. Verify the hub race seating, clean or replace if needed, then torque the axle nuts to spec. If the wheel still feels loose, tighten the dropouts and check for a mis‑spoked wheel. Once the bearings are smooth, bump the low‑end limit screw a notch and re‑test at 80 rpm. The punch should hit clean, and the top speed will stay unaffected.

Sounds solid—get the wheel spinning, lock in the settings, and you’ll feel that instant surge right off the line. Happy riding.