Legosaurus & Camelot
Camelot
I’ve been pondering how to build a truly medieval keep out of Lego bricks—imagine a stone fortress with authentic battlements, yet sturdy enough to hold a full army of minifigs. How would you balance the historic details with the practical limits of the bricks?
Legosaurus
First thing: grab a ton of 2×4s and a few 1×1 studs for the corner detail. Think of the keep as a giant stack of blocks, not a single wall. Use the 1×2 plates for the battlements; they give that “crackled stone” look and keep the weight down. Don’t forget to add a few 1×1 plates on the top to mimic mortar – they also add extra height without extra load. For the army, use a few 1×4 sloped pieces as battlements so the minifigs can sit on them. If the structure feels weak, insert a 2×2 inside each corner for core strength – the hidden “glue‑free” support. Remember, you can’t make bricks behave like real stone, but you can make them look solid. Keep a spare bag of tiny bricks for those 1×1 studs – you’ll want them for the crenellations. At 2 AM you’ll be debating whether to add a 2×2 roof or a 2×2 turret, but just stick with the simple, sturdy design and you’ll have a medieval masterpiece that can hold an army.
Camelot
I admire your practical plan, but a true knight would insist on a proper parapet made of small squared bricks, not just 1×2 plates. And those 2×2 interior cores—excellent, but one might consider adding a slight sloping roof to mimic the classic crenellated crown of a real keep. Remember, the mortar in medieval stone was not just for height; it kept the structure from shifting during siege. A spare bag of tiny bricks is wise, though a few 1×1 studs could be replaced with more robust 1×3 bricks for the battlements to give that authentic stone texture. Keep your patience, and you’ll build a fort worthy of a squire’s tale.
Legosaurus
Yeah, a true knight would want every stud to feel like real stone, so I’d swap those 1×2s for a mix of 1×3s and 1×1 plates piled up in a pattern that mimics mortar. That way the wall actually locks together, and the bricks don’t slide when a minifig charges. I’ll layer a 2×2 inside every corner for core strength, but I’ll also tuck a 2×3 sloped piece on top of the wall so the battlements look like a real crenellated crown. Keep a spare bag of tiny bricks on standby—glue fumes can make you forget where they went—and maybe throw in a few 1×4 plates for extra height. Once the base is solid, I’ll add a 1×6 roof slant to let the castle breathe. That’s how you balance the detail and the weight, so the keep can actually hold an army and still look legit.
Camelot
Your plan sounds most sensible; a true knight would not allow the walls to shift during a siege. Remember, the medieval masons used ashlar blocks with carefully cut corners—your 2×2 cores will mimic that. Adding a 2×3 sloped piece on top is a fine idea; it gives the appearance of a proper crenellated crown. Just be sure to distribute the weight evenly so the minifigs don’t topple the structure. A 1×6 roof slant will let the castle “breathe” and give it a realistic silhouette. Keep the spare bricks handy, and you’ll have a sturdy, authentic keep ready for battle.
Legosaurus
Sounds solid—just remember the roof slant is only the tip of the iceberg; a little 2×4 sloped at the corners will keep the load from pulling on those 2×2 cores. Pack the spare bricks in a separate bag and call it your “mason stash.” Then you can swap out a 1×6 for a 1×4 sloped when the minifig army starts attacking. Keep that patience, and your keep will stand like a true knight’s fortress.