Sure thing. Pick a microcontroller that really cuts power, like an ATmega328P in deep‑sleep or a low‑power ESP32 in deep‑sleep mode. Keep the firmware tiny: only pull the sensor data when you need it, then go back to sleep. Put the temperature sensor on a separate power rail so you can shut it off entirely when you’re not reading. Use a low‑drain 24‑bit RTC or an external watch‑dog that can wake the MCU on a timer or a GPIO interrupt. For the battery, a 9V alkaline is a bad fit – it’s huge drain. Swap to a small LiFePO4 or Li‑ion pack that can deliver 100‑150 mAh at a low voltage. Add a boost converter that only activates when you need to send data or turn the heater on. Add a low‑dropout regulator that sits between the battery and the MCU to keep it at a steady voltage without a lot of wasted current. In code, use static allocation, avoid heap, keep the ISR short, use bit‑fields for flags, and make the main loop a single pass. Disable unused peripherals, lock the clock to the lowest speed that still meets your accuracy needs, and use the sleep modes aggressively. That should give you months of uptime even when it’s freezing outside.