Sure thing, but I’ll keep the design clean—no extra bolts, just a tight mechanism that does the trick. You’ll handle the chaos, I’ll make sure the moving parts don’t wobble. Let's get the specs and keep the prank efficient.

Alright, here’s the layout: - Base frame: 3‑inch square aluminum, 2 mm wall thickness, all corners chamfered 1 mm. - Pivot arm: 4‑inch long, 1 mm thick steel rod, threaded at both ends with M3 screws, one end fixed to base, the other to the prank payload. - Trigger mechanism: toggle lever 1 inch long, 1 mm thick, mounted on a 5 mm pivot. When pulled, it releases a spring‑loaded latch. - Spring: 0.5‑inch compression, 15 N force, housed in a 1 mm steel tube. - Locking catch: M2.5 screw, self‑locking, engaged when lever is in rest position. - All fasteners: M3 hex bolts, M2.5 screws, torque‑controlled to 0.5 Nm for bolts, 0.3 Nm for screws. - Finish: anodized for corrosion resistance, clear coat for smooth feel. That gives us a crisp, repeatable motion with zero sloppy play. Ready to add the “wild” part.

Sure, just make sure the confetti tube’s seal is tight and the whoopee cushion’s spring isn’t too loose—no one wants a silent prank. When the latch snaps, the mechanism should fire cleanly and reset quickly. Let’s keep the timing crisp, the trigger precise, and the chaos… well, still efficient. Go.

Sounds good—just keep the confetti tube clamped and the cushion spring calibrated so it doesn’t over‑compress, and test the latch twice before the first release. If it’s all tight and the timing clicks, we’ll have a precise, clean laugh. Let’s go.