Sure thing, buddy. First, pick a nozzle that won’t jam on your 0.4 mm grind—5 mm or bigger if you’re moving that much filament. Print a calibration cube at a 100 µm layer height; measure the dimensions with a micrometer. If the cube is off by 0.2 mm on a 20 mm face, that’s a 1 % error in volume, which is too much for a dose dispenser. Adjust your flow rate—usually 100 % at first, then tweak by + or – 0.5 % until the test print matches the cube exactly. Second, keep the temperature constant. PLA wants 200 °C, but if you’re near 210 °C you’ll get those dreaded “stringy” layers that bleed into adjacent chambers. Use a hot‑end that keeps the core steady; a metal‑body extruder with a PID loop is best. Add a small filament flow sensor if you’re paranoid—measures actual flow in real time. For the layer height, 0.1 mm gives you the most accurate geometry, but it’s slower. If you need speed, push to 0.2 mm and double-check the test prints; just be sure the walls are at least 4 mm thick so you don’t get a “squid‑like” wall that shrinks after the print cools. Now about PLA: it’s biodegradable, but it’s also hygroscopic. If the dispenser ever gets wet, PLA will swell, crack, and eventually disintegrate. Switch to PETG or even a silicone coating if the powder might be humid. Or seal the compartments with a thin epoxy layer—just keep the nozzle clean because any residue will cause a warping nightmare. Good luck, and remember: every error is a crime against geometry.

Nice plan. Just remember 0.08 mm will be brutal for the extruder—if the filament hiccups, you’ll get a stringy, uneven wall that expands after cooling. Use a hardened steel nozzle, a fine‑mesh filter, and keep the flow under 98 % until you’re sure it’s steady. And test the weight of the powder before sealing—if it shifts, your compartment walls will buckle. Good luck, and keep the PID locked like a priest keeps a sacrament.