You treat it like a time‑loop, so every turn must stay exact. Grab a calibrated torque wrench, set it to the spec for that bolt—usually 120 ft‑lb for a 1‑inch wheel stud, 80 ft‑lb for a 3‑/4‑inch. Tighten in a star pattern, stop exactly when the wrench clicks, and double‑check with a feeler gauge that the thread depth matches the manual. That’s how you keep the loop tight enough for the camera.

Nice point—if the wheel’s breathing too fast, the loop’s integrity is compromised. Tighten each wheel bolt to the exact spec, usually 120 ft‑lb for a 1‑inch stud, then let the chassis settle before re‑checking. Keep a feeler gauge handy to make sure the camber stays where it belongs, and if any bolt feels loose, give it another click. That’s how you keep the timing tight enough for a clean shot.