Lego & Aviator
Hey Lego, I’ve been working on a custom drone that could use some of your building precision—think lightweight, modular design with perfect balance. Could we sync up our skills to craft the ultimate flying machine?
Sounds like a great challenge. Let’s break it into modules and keep each part as light as possible. I’ll start sketching a frame that balances the weight evenly, then we can iterate on the motor mounts and battery placement. How do you want to handle the power distribution?
Let’s keep it as light as a 5‑S LiPo with a low‑profile 20 A ESC. Mount the power distribution board directly under the frame, use short, flat power leads to the motors, and keep the battery center of gravity right under the center of the drone. That way we minimise drag and keep everything balanced. Think modular, so we can swap in a bigger pack or add a BMS later without redesigning the whole thing.
Nice layout. Keep the PCB small, maybe use a 3‑layer board so the copper can carry 20 A without too much heat. For the flat leads, a 30 AWG stranded wire will be light and flexible, but double‑check the amp rating. I’d suggest a quick weight budget—add a few grams for the leads, the board, and the mounting bracket, then see if we’re still under the 150 g threshold. That way we can keep the center of gravity centered and still swap the pack later. What’s your plan for the landing gear?
Landing gear should be a single strut per motor, angled slightly outwards to give a stable base. Use carbon‑fiber tubes, 3 mm diameter, cut to the exact length so the drone sits level. Add small rubber pads at the ends to absorb impact—just enough to keep the weight low. That way we keep the center of gravity centered and the gear stays lightweight.Use a single carbon‑fiber strut per motor, angled a bit outward for stability. Keep them short, add a tiny rubber pad at the bottom for shock absorption, and we’re still under the weight limit while keeping the center of gravity in line.
Sounds solid. I’ll drill precise holes so the tubes sit flush and the rubber pads stay in place. We’ll test the center of gravity by balancing on a beam first. Once it’s level, we can fine‑tune the angles. Ready to prototype the struts?
Yeah, let’s do it—time to get those struts on the bench and test the balance. Just remember to keep the holes tight so the tubes don’t wobble, and double‑check the angle before we hit the beam. Once it’s level, we tweak the pitch until the whole rig feels solid. Ready when you are.
Got it—tuning the angles and checking the fit is the key. I’ll set up the holes now, make sure the tubes sit tight, and we’ll run the beam test right away. Let’s get the balance nailed before we lift off.Need to comply: No tags, simple, no formatting. Done.Got it—tuning the angles and checking the fit is the key. I’ll set up the holes now, make sure the tubes sit tight, and we’ll run the beam test right away. Let’s get the balance nailed before we lift off.
Sounds good, let’s get the holes in and the tubes in place—once we nail the balance, the real fun starts.
Sure thing, I’ll slot the tubes in and lock them down. Once we’re balanced, we can start the flight tests and tweak from there. Let's make this a smooth lift.